The OHMEGA’s concept is refreshingly simple: to make belaying safer, easier, and more comfortable for both partners. However, Edelrid’s execution of this vision is anything but ordinary. At the heart of the OHMEGA is a three-step braking mechanism that allows the belayer to adjust the braking support according to the weight difference within the climbing party. This feature is particularly valuable for climbers who regularly belay significantly heavier partners – a scenario where many traditional setups reach their limits.
In the event of a fall, the integrated braking cam activates and automatically compensates for weight differences, helping prevent the belayer from being lifted off the ground. This feature provides safer catches and reduces the risk of ground falls at low heights, which are some of the most common accidents in sport climbing.
Another notable innovation is the integrated steel pulley, which minimizes friction at the first bolt. This small yet essential feature prevents rope drag at the beginning of the route, providing a more controlled belay experience, especially on steep gym walls or outdoor sport climbs with awkward first bolt placements.
Safety and performance for every rope team
The OHMEGA isn’t only relevant for partners with big weight differences. Its design can improve safety and handling for most climbing situations. The integrated braking cam reduces the risk of common belay mistakes and adds margin in unexpected falls. On longer routes it keeps rope friction low, which translates into smoother handling and less effort over the day. For routes where the crux sits close to the ground, the additional braking power increases protection against ground falls – still among the most common climbing accidents. At the same time, the OHMEGA supports dynamic belaying, allowing softer catches without demanding perfect timing from the belayer. In multi-pitch terrain, this balance between holding power and controlled give can protect the belayer and deliver more comfortable catches in awkward or exposed stances.
Compact design, intuitive handling
As with many Edelrid products, the OHMEGA excels in a category that climbers strongly associate with the brand: clarity and intuitive usability. The device features a self-explanatory design intended to minimize potential misapplication from the very first use. Clipping it to the harness is straightforward. Switching between the three braking levels requires no specialist knowledge.
Thanks to its short HMPE sling, the activation distance is minimal, which translates into smoother, softer catches and improved overall handling.
At just 190 grams, the OHMEGA is nearly undetectable in a backpack. Yet, when it comes to performance, it makes a striking difference. This lightness is the result of a smart material combination:
• Metal construction and a steel pulley for longevity and robustness
• Durable HMPE sling for high breaking strength and abrasion resistance
• Plastic housing for reduced weight and comfortable handling
Edelrid has a long tradition of material expertise, and this product is another strong demonstration of a smartly designed, long-lasting climbing tool.
Purpose-built for modern rope teams
In modern climbing, it is rare for rope teams to be perfectly matched in weight. Gyms foster communities where partners train and climb with people of all different physiques and skill levels. Outdoor sport climbing often pairs climbers of different sizes, experience levels, and physical strengths as well. The OHMEGA addresses this reality by making belaying more accessible and reliable for all rope teams, from beginner gym climbers to experienced outdoor climbers pushing their limits.
Daniel Gebel, Edelrid’s Head of Innovation, explains: “Brake assistants were originally designed to protect lighter people when belaying a heavier lead climber. Since we started using the OHMEGA, however, we have learned how much more these devices can do to make belaying easier, more comfortable, and safer in general. I expect that the use of brake assistants will significantly change belaying in sport climbing. The OHMEGA has prompted me to question much of what I thought I knew about belaying and try new things. I believe this class of devices has the potential to usher in a new era of belaying.”
Designed specifically for single-strand sport climbing, the device reflects a rising trend in climbing technology: specialized, compact devices that enhance safety without increasing complexity. Edelrid’s focus is not on adding features for the sake of innovation but on creating a meaningful upgrade to one of the most critical aspects of climbing safety.
The OHMEGA is not intended to replace belay devices. Rather, it acts as a versatile belay assistant that complements existing systems, adding a noticeable layer of comfort and control. For many rope teams, especially those with significant weight differences between partners, it has the potential to become an indispensable companion.
This is what the jury says:
“Three braking levels, friction reduction, and true versatility make the Omega a new benchmark for safer, smoother belaying.”
These features convinced the jury:
- Three-level brake assistance
- The integrated pulley reduces first-bolt friction.
- It is versatile for all rope parties.
Product specifications:
- Weight: 190 g
- Size: 6 cm (length) x 3 cm (height) x 3.5 cm (depth).
- Material concept: Metal construction with a steel pulley, HMPE sling, and plastic housing.
- Color: Oasis
- Retail price: €125.00
